Friday, December 18, 2020

Soap

Ramachandran Somasundaram was a devout Hindu. His earliest memories were of his mother waking up at the crack of dawn while the roosters were still crowing, having a quick bath, then lighting fragrant agarbattis and singing short verses of praise to God in front of their mini temple at home. Most of the household was still asleep. If the morning newspaper that was flung by the paperwala hit their front door, the dull thud would wake up Ram; his mother would catch him peeking out from underneath his blanket and beckon him to join her in the lighting of the agarbattis and teach him to recite some of the Sanskrit verses. It seemed to him that Amma was most at peace and happy during this ritual -- a kind of an unearthly glow surrounded her as she went through the motions. Much later, when Ram was all grown up and married, when Sudha happened to light the same agarbatti that Amma used to, the smell instantly transported him to his childhood.

Sundays were special. After her morning ritual she made preparations for the Sunday special lunch. Their day-to-day meals were very simple: tempered rice with sambhar or idlis with chutney or dosai with chutney and sambhar. On Sunday, there would be dosa and idli or rice and sambar and korma; then, a delicious dessert all homemade with a generous heaping of Amma's love! After making the preparations for the lunch but before cooking it, the family --- Appa, Amma, and Ram --- would head to the local temple.

Their local temple was actually an ashram. The ashram had a permanent body of holy men and a few holy women who called it their home but also many visiting ascetics who might stay a day or a week before moving to another ashram. Students joined when they were quite young aspiring to become sadhus a part of the permanent body. They were required to study a rigorous curriculum of religious texts and had to pass a bunch of exams before they were allowed to wear the saffron-colored robes that signified them as sadhus. As students, they would also be encouraged to participate in the administrative and outreach activities of the ashram. Some would display a talent for the kitchen where they could help prepare the meals, but more likely administer the affairs of the kitchen: the buying of supplies, the hiring and firing of kitchen help, the creation of the daily menus, and so on. Others would be interested in becoming teachers and they would receive the proper training. Still others would be interested in outreach. They were encouraged to deliver the evening lectures on days when the attendance was thin --- the popular days were always reserved for the higher-ups.

Most temples were devoted to a particular deity. The ashram, however, embraced "Sanatana dharma" -- all deities were equal. The main building of the ashram where devotees spent the most time was in the shape of a large airy square. The front of the square was open with a large staircase that extended almost all the way across the width in a way that seemed to welcomed the devotees with open arms. All along the three sides of the square there were 15' x 15' rooms each dedicated to a particular Hindu god. Inside each room was some sculptor's conception of how that deity should appear. (The governing body of the ashram being a large organization there was no doubt that sculptors' concepts were revised many times by committees and administrators before they became a reality). Devotees would walk the passage that was made along the periphery and stop at as many of the rooms to pray as they wished. The central area served as a gathering place where devotees would sit while lectures on various religious texts were delivered every evening. During the daytime, however, children engaged in spontaneous play in that cavernous space.

Amma, Appa and Ram would diligently walk the periphery and stop at most deities offering their prayers and --- depending on their devotion to that deity --- drop a few rupees in the collection box that was strategically placed in front of every room. At the center of the passage on the far side of the square, there was a Nandi bull sculpture that guarded the entrance of the 15' x 15' room in front of it -- that was Lord Shiva's abode and the bull was the guardian to its entrance. The time spent by the family at the other deities varied every week, but they always spent time at Lord Shiva's abode. And Appa made sure that both he and Ram received a "vibhuti" (three wide horizontal ash marks) on their forehead. Being rather dark skinned, the vibhuti really stood out on their foreheads.

Ram's favorite activity, though, was to visit the "gaushala" -- the collection of cows that the ashram kept for their daily supply of milk. For a few rupees one could buy freshly-cut grass and feed the cows. He would invariably seek out the youngest calves he could find and feed them. While eating, the calves would gaze at him with their big dark eyes -- Ram could feel their warmth and the gentleness as he looked into their eyes. Later, as an adult he could never understand how people could consume beef --- how anyone who had looked into the eyes of these gentle creatures could possibly kill and eat them. Millions of Hindus just blindly accepted the cow as a sacred animal but for Ram that connection was much more organic and intimate --- he felt like he really knew why the cow was considered so sacred in Hinduism.

Apart from this exposure to religion, Ram demonstrated an interest and a special facility in science and mathematics. Every day, Appa spent an hour or so in the evening attempting to solve the chess problem posed in The Times' chess column. When he was little, Ram used to jump into Appa's lap while Appa attempted to solve it. As soon as he could understand the basic ideas of playing and winning, Appa taught him chess. Ram quickly loved to appreciate and embrace the logical approach to thinking that chess required. 

When he was in the mood, Appa would also relate stories to Ram. Some were from the Mahabharata or the Ramyana. Others from Arabian Nights or Aesop's Fables. But, Appa was most animated when he spoke of the backstories of the famous Indian (and particularly Tamilian) scientists and mathematicians. Ram learnt about the humble beginnings of Ramnujan, his facility with numbers and number theory, and how he was discovered by the British and spent time in the UK, but ultimately experienced health issues and passed away at a very young age. Or about C. V. Raman and his work on physics and ultimately becoming the first Indian and Asian to win the Nobel Prize. Whether it was his exposure to the logical thought process of chess or these stories about scientists that made a strong impression on Ram, it was clear that Ram was talented in science and mathematics.

Ram's rank on the joint entrance exam for engineering colleges was sufficiently high for him to enroll at the best IIT campus, and that too in Chemical Engineering -- a highly sought-after degree in those days. IIT was a whole new world for Ram. Initially, Ram struggled to fit into the culture. Students came from all parts of the country and from all classes of society. There was a culture of eating meat, drinking and drugs that was completely alien to Ram. His devotion to his religion and particularly the vibhuti he applied on his forehead every morning was a source of connection to his family and his culture for him but also for amusement among students on campus and even some bullying. 

As the semester progressed it was clear than Ram was not only a stellar student but he patiently made himself available to fellow students to help them with their academic difficulties. Many a student --- not only in the first year, but many senior students --- could point to Ram's help on passing their exams. Ultimately, the students just accepted Ram for what he was and he made many friends across all walks of life. And even though he didn't eat meat or drink alcohol or took any recreational drugs he was invited and even hung out at all the "cool" parties. At home and in the neighborhood he was called "Ram" but in college he fondly came to be known as "Soma". 

Before graduation, Soma or Ram --- take your pick --- was offered several well-paying jobs by all the top corporations that recruited at IIT. There was one that really appealed to him even though it wasn't the most prestigious or the best paying: an offer from a British multinational that would allow him to apply his skills in chemical engineering to make soap for the Indian market. The Indian middle class was getting larger and acquiring more buying power every month it seemed. As they acquired buying power it also gained an awareness of luxury goods that were cleverly marketed on all the TV channels. And ordinary everyday items like soap also had a segment that was marketed and perceived as a luxury item. While Ram didn't care for the aura of luxury that some soaps acquired, the low and middle segment of the market gave him an opportunity to make a real difference on the public health in India. After all, the country always struggled with tropical diseases that took countless lives. Something simple like developing good hygiene would have a significant positive impact on reducing infectious diseases. And the easiest way to develop good hygiene was to get good affordable soap into people's homes and get them to use it.  The recruiter from the British firm was particularly clever at understanding what made someone tick and that he really played up this is the aspect of the job to recruit Ram.

Ram quickly made a difference at the firm with his knowledge of chemical engineering. He didn't know about the practical aspects of manufacturing, but he was a quick and devoted learner and impressed his superiors. On the technical side, he rose rapidly through the ranks. His personal life also progressed it seemed hand-in-hand with his professional life. Since he was making a substantial salary and making good upward progress in a multinational firm, he was a great catch. Through family connections they found Sudha -- a young, pretty, very well educated woman, but also one who would "fit" into their family easily. They were married in a simple Hindu ceremony and in due time Ram bought a house next door to Amma and Appa's so he and Sudha could easily find a balance between having their own place and being close enough to Amma and Appa.

The firm's main manufacturing facility was located in Bhopal. For some unknown reason the production ran into quality issues. The higher ups in firm identified Ram as someone who had the technical chops to troubleshoot whatever it was that was causing the issues. That's how Ram came to visit that Bhopal and that facility. Making soap involves mixing fats and oils with lye, then stirring and cooking the mixture, and when the mixture is cool, adding colors and perfumes and finally cutting and packaging the solid soap that emerges. It's a simple process but when it is scaled to the level where enough soap is being made to wash a country's population, many things can go wrong. Ram's knowledge of chemistry, his engineer's aptitude for solving practical problems, and the experience he had gained so far plus a certain amount of naivete to the ways of the world were the perfect combination of skills and experience to solve these issues. Ram's family of course was very proud that he had been called upon to address such an important issue and Amma didn't hesitate to proudly broadcast Ram's upcoming trip to her neighbors.

Ram reached Bhopal late in the evening on a Wednesday. He was fetched from the airport by a company car and driver who whisked him away to the company "guest house" that housed any visiting employees above a certain rank. The driver explained to Ram that Mr. Howell -- the plant manager -- felt it was a bit late in the evening to have Ram visit the plant, but that he was looking forward to seeing Ram at the plant right after breakfast.

Through some strange coincidence, the cook at the guest house -- Prabhakar -- was from a village in Tamil Nadu and made excellent idli and sambhar in the morning which Ram feasted on before heading off to the plant. Mr. Howell received him warmly and introduced him to the vital members of the team that were to work with Ram. The next item on the agenda was of course to receive a tour of the plant. Mr. Howell personally conducted a thorough tour of the facility for Ram: beginning with the receiving docks where the raw materials were received, the incoming quality control, in-plant transportation, the main manufacturing floor, cooling, coloring and perfuming, outgoing quality control and finally, packaging and shipping.

The most interesting part of the tour for Ram was the main manufacturing floor. The center of the floor was dominated by a large square vat -- the size of a large swimming pool -- where the fats and oils were mixed with the lye, stirred and cooked to perfection before being transported to the cooling chambers. On one side of the square vat were wide steps leading up to the rim of the vat. The rim was deliberately made wide enough to accommodate a passageway where the workers could walk around the perimeter of the vat. On both sides of the passageway railings were erected to prevent anyone from accidently falling off the rim onto the floor (a simple fracture or concussion) or into the boiling mixture of fats, oils, and lye (a certain and horrible death). Every few meters of the passageway a small platform jutted out onto the floor where some tools and testing instruments were permanently stored to sample and the test the soapy broth. At the far side of the square, the passageway had a perpendicular connection that extended into the center of the vat so that samples of the broth could be retrieved from the center. That passageway was supported by steel columns underneath that emerged from the vat. The firm as well as Mr. Howell believed firmly in employee safety, so that the passageway floor was cleaned regularly to prevent anyone from slipping and the railings were designed to prevent anyone from accidently falling off the passageway and were inspected on a regular basis to ensure their integrity. More importantly, the idea that safety is the number one priority was emphasized in all aspects of the operation of the plant.

The vat reminded Ram of his ashram: beginning with its square shape, and the wide steps on one side leading up to the passageway that covered the whole perimeter of the vat --- all of that were like the ashram. While walking around the vat accompanied by Mr. Howell he almost felt like he was walking around his ashram. Mr. Howell stopped every few meters to discuss this or that minutae of how the vat operated -- that was like stopping at every deity at his ashram and paying his respects. It was clear that Ram belonged here. The only difference was that he was wearing his chappals while walking the periphery of the vat; at the temple of course, all devotees were required to remove their chappals before they entered the square hall.

To fulfill his mission in Bhopal, Ram began to apply himself that afternoon itself. After being amply reassured by Mr. Howell that the quality of the raw materials was not the source of the problem, it was clear to Ram that whatever it was that needed to the fixed it was at the vat. He started talking to the foreman and the workers of the team that operated the vat. Initially, of course, the team was suspicious and wary of his presence. But, over the next few days they felt reassured that he was here to address the issue and not to identify who it was who would lose the job. Ram's simple and forthright manner won the team over easily.

Every evening he would call Sudha from the guest house phone (paid for by the firm -- no questions asked) and have long conversations with her. The other guests at the house went out to dinner after having a session of drinks at the house, then played cards with small stakes until bedtime. Ram --- being a teetotaler and a strict vegetarian --- joined the gang the first evening just to be polite, but excused himself every day thereafter.  And Prabhakar was always eager to please Ram with his culinary skills particularly because here was a fellow from his home state.  Ram's entertainment was talking to Sudha, then turning in early for an early-morning start the next day. Several days passed this way. It wasn't clear to Sudha whether Ram was making any progress, but Ram did mention that his presence there was clearly reassuring to Mr. Howell that the best engineering brain in the firm had been dispatched by the top brass to fix this problem.

When one evening Ram didn't call, Sudha knew something was amiss. Late that day she received a call from Mr. Howell with the bad news. She ran screaming to Amma and Appa's and shared the terrible news with them. Ram's dead body was found in the vat by one of the workers after the 5:00 pm shift had ended.

"It must've been an accident!", Amma said between her sobs.

"Why can't these English people design their fancy plants to take care of the workers?!", moaned Appa.

"It wasn't an accident", Sudha said.

"How do you know?", Appa asked.

"Ram had removed his chappals and neatly laid them aside before jumping into the vat, Mr. Howell said", Sudha replied.

"Why oh why would my Ram ever do such a thing?!", Amma cried.

Sudha spoke hesitantly and in such a low voice that Amma and Appa could barely hear, "Mr. Howell said Ram found out today for the first time that the fat used by the firm for making soap was beef tallow."


(Note: My father worked for a large multinational that made soap. He related a story like this to me when I was little. Not sure whether it's true -- he was a great story teller.)


Wednesday, April 15, 2020

A thorny rose -- a short story

There was a good chance that Shiraz was going to grow up to be mentally "off". After all, his parents were first cousins. Not just that: it wasn't unusual in his extended family for cousins to marry. No one seemed to remember where this started. Maybe it was because they were a small community of muslims bunched together near Mohammad Ali road in Bombay.
Food stalls on Mohammad Ali Road in Bombay
The elders didn't know too many people outside their immediate geographic area. It was convenient to find a suitable match from the extended family itself.


Shiraz wasn't the first in his family to exhibit strange mental traits. Karim, his grandmother's brother on his mother's side, drank chai and whisky with soda side-by-side. Surreptitiously of course, for no good muslim would openly drink alcohol. Qadir, Shiraz's father, learned of this much later, otherwise he would never have married Karim's daughter, Salma, particularly once he came to appreciate a good Indian whisky. Or maybe he would have. It wasn't like he had a lot of choices. It was all these close marriages that led to the wackiness in the family.


When Shiraz was two years old it became apparent that something was off. If he didn't get a piece of candy that was promised to him he would have a tantrum. Not like a regular two-year old's tantrum. His favorite way to show displeasure was to run to the nearest wall and bang his head hard on the wall several times crying loudly all the while until he got his way.


First Qadir and Salma thought that was strange but just a phase that would pass. It didn't. The only person who could calm Shiraz down was his chacha-jan (father's brother) Salim. Salim was a big handsome man with considerable wealth. Built it all from scratch. He had two shops on Mohammad Ali Road, a small cafe and an attar shop.
An "attar" shop on Mohammad Ali Road
Salim lived close to Qadir and Salma's house and the shops were five minutes away. As Shiraz's tantrums got more frequent and violent, Salma would yell to one of the neighborhood kids to fetch Salim.


Salim's arrival had a tranquil effect on Shiraz. Was it his size? Or his calm but authoritative voice? Or the way he carried himself? Salim would take Shiraz to his cafe and have his boys serve him a generous helping of firni.
Now, this was no ordinary firni. There were several cafes on Mohammad Ali Road that served firni with saffron and nuts, but only Salim's had one that had just a touch of rose. After a meal of spicy kebabs and naan, this was just the thing to cool your stomach down. Then Salim take him to his attar shop. The exotic aromas in the attar shop never failed to soothe Shiraz. Salim would tell Shiraz stories about how this attar or that was acquired in some far away exotic land from a mountain flower that bloomed "only three particular days of the year". Most of it was made up of course, but who cared, least of all Qadir and Salma, as long as the boy who returned home was smiling and happy.


As Shiraz grew, his behavior got more violent. Once in sixth grade he was playing soccer on the school's soccer field. It was a friendly inter-school match. One of the defensive players on his team passed the ball to the forward, bypassing Shiraz who was a mid-fielder. That set him off. He confronted the defensive player who was much bigger.  Size is an advantage. Not in this case though. Although the big kid was strong, Shiraz was fast. Speed beats size.


Before they knew it, the two boys were wrestling each other on the barren field. Punching, kicking and swearing. In no time, Shiraz had him bleeding from the nose, his hair full of the red dry mud, and the jersey torn. Both teams had their hands full peeling Shiraz off the now sobbing defender. Of course the Principal called Qadir and Salma to school and warned them that next time Shiraz would be expelled.


In due course, Salma gave birth to a baby girl Saaeda. Whatever you might say about Shiraz, he was very protective of his little sister. If she cried because she was hungry or her nappies were wet Shiraz was the first to run and fetch Salma from the kitchen. He would play with her and make funny sounds or faces just to see her giggle with delight. But, once in a while, something would set Shiraz off. Salim's theory was that Shiraz's episodes were related to the lunar cycle, particularly close to new-moon nights. When Salim would say this, all the elders in the family would nod in agreement.


The first time it occurred was the day after the new-moon night. Saaeda had flowered into a lovely teenager. Shiraz was in the first year of college. In Bombay's colleges, classroom space was scarce. Classes for senior-college students were held early morning to noon and for the junior-college students in the afternoon. Shiraz was hanging out at home reading the daily when Saaeda yelled to her mother, "I want to go for a bath but I can't find any panties!"


It's not clear, even to this day, what was it that set Shiraz off. He flung the newspaper down, strode to Saaeda and slapped her hard on her face. This was the first time it had ever happened and the first slap. Saaeda couldn't even process what had happened - she just stood there in complete silence while four red finger marks appeared on her face where she smarted. Slowly tears appeared in her big black eyes and she turned away from Shiraz. That just made Shiraz more angry. He hit her hard between her shoulder blades with his fist. So hard that she couldn't breathe in at all for a few seconds. When she recovered and started breathing, he slapped her hard twice.  She finally screamed, "Maaaaaaaa!!!!!" and started to sob loudly. Salma rushed out of the kitchen and immediately saw what was happening and threw herself between the two. Shiraz was now breathing heavily through two flared nostrils. He slowly retreated to his chair but he got in a couple of more blows -- it wasn't clear whether they landed on Saaeda or Salma -- because they were hugging each other tightly and sobbing. All the commotion had attracted the neighbors' attention and one of them sent a kid to fetch Salim. Salim first made sure that Saaeda and Salma were comforted, then led Shiraz away to his cafe and attar shop.


After that day Shiraz went off on Saaeda every 3-4 months. It was usually around new-moon night. Every month new-moon night approached Salma would develop wrinkles on her forehead and her blood pressure would rise (she didn't know that though). Both women would engage at home with a heightened sense of awareness, particularly watching what they said in front of Shiraz. Still, something or another would set Shiraz off and Saaeda bore the brunt of his assaults. Most times these episodes occurred when Qadir was at work at the docks so it fell upon Salim to calm the situation down. In the evening when Qadir returned home, he would learn of the episode, hold Saaeda in his arms and just cry.  Qadir, who loved his daughter immensely, was at his wits end.


Between Qadir, Salma, and Salim the only thing they could think of was to consult with the maulvi (a man of religion) at the local mosque. In those days, therapy and therapists were unheard of. And even if they were, who had the wisdom or the money to consult one? The maulvi came over one day, had a meal with the family and then sat down with Shiraz to talk reason to him. But, even Shiraz didn't understand why he behaved the way he did. "My parents will tell you I've always been like this. I can't bring myself to stop." Finally, in exasperation the maulvi shouted, "You fool! Do you know that when you hit your sister your hands will grow thorns?!"  Being a religious, devout and superstitious family, this admonishment would deter Shiraz for a few more months than normal, but ultimately the violence would return.


A few years passed this way. In his fourth year in college Shiraz accidentally ran into a girl who happened to live in his neighborhood. She was in the first year of college. Petite. Big black eyes. Thick eyelashes.  Long straight black hair. She always wore loose salwar-Kameezes, but if you looked carefully you could see that she had a plentiful bosom and when she walked (again, if you looked carefully) her hips were larger than her waist and swung lustily. What attracted Shiraz most, though, was that this dusky rose was completely unaware of her sexuality. Her name was Mumtaz and she was as beautiful as Shah Jahan's -- some would say even more beautiful. Shiraz met her because his neighbor Nafisa was tasked with walking with Mumtaz to and fro from college. Mumtaz's mother felt it was safer for the two girls this way and Nafisa's mother -- remembering how she had tasked an older girl to walk Nafisa when she was a first-year student -- readily agreed.


When Nafisa introduced her to Shiraz, Mumtaz blushed a little. Unless you really knew her you couldn't tell though, so subtle was the change. They hardly exchanged any words that time,, but Mumtaz did say to Shiraz, "Yes, I know you". This was taken as a casual comment by Shiraz, but only later when they got to know each other better did Mumtaz explain to Shiraz, that when he was the school's soccer team captain, she and her friends used to come to school just to watch him play. Since he was a midfielder he didn't have star power but it was clear that the soccer team was so
successful because of Shiraz's midfield leadership directing the ball and his players in a way that made their school the Inter-School Soccer Trophy champions. All her friends were in love with this handsome captain.


The friendship between Mumtaz and Shiraz quickly blossomed into love. Mumtaz had a magical effect on Shiraz. He became calm. He had purpose in his life. The moon's lunatic pull was no match for Mumtaz's intense love and admiration for Shiraz. Qadir, Salma, and Saaeda saw the change that had come about in Shiraz. Although Qadir and Salma couldn't understand it, Nafisa and Saaeda used to talk about the blossoming love between the two.  Before and after college classes, Shiraz used to work at his chacha-jan's cafe and attar shop and it quickly became apparent that he would inherit the businesses as Salim had no heirs. Thus, when Shiraz and Mumtaz approached their respective parents for marriage, there was little resistance.



They were married on a beautiful January day. Firni from chacha-jan's cafe was served to all the guests. Being a family wedding, chacham-jan has instructed his cooks to take special care to prepare the firm's special rose firni. The most authentic quawwali troupe from Lucknow performed at the wedding.


As is natural, in due course Mumtaz was pregnant with their first child. Being the tiny person she was, Shiraz teased her that she looked like an inflated soccer ball. He even found a grey and white checked salwar-kameez for her which she used to wear during her pregnancy just to amuse him even though she didn't like it.


Five weeks before her due date Mumtaz went into sudden labor. The premature baby girl was delivered safely but the doctors kept her in an incubator for three days. Mumtaz was well too. Shiraz would visit the hospital every day. He could see the tiny little girl in the incubator. She was the prettiest little baby he had ever seen in his life. Even the nurses fussed over this tiny miracle.


Finally, the day arrived when the baby was safe to be brought out of the incubator and be given to the parents. Shiraz wore his finest clothes that day, took his parents', chacha-jan's and the maulvi's blessings, stopped at the attar shop to apply a mild (he didn't want to take any chances that his baby would be irritated) but expensive attar and made his way to the hospital.


He was beaming from ear to ear when he arrived at the premature baby ward. The baby was being bathed by the nurse and it was clear that she loved the feel of the warm water over her body. When the nurse finished, she gently dried all the water off the baby's body in a soft towel, and before swaddling it, decided to hand it to Shiraz. Shiraz could already see the thick eyelashes and the big black eyes. When the baby passed from the nurse's hands to Shiraz it looked up at Shiraz and its expression changed just a tiny little bit to convey, "I know this man loves me and I feel safe."  This was going to be the prettiest and most-loved child in the whole wide world. Here he was holding a miracle in his arms. He had hardly held her when she suddenly frowned and started bawling loudly. To his dismay he had to quickly hand the baby back to the nurse. Even the nurse couldn't fathom what had just occurred. But then, Shiraz glanced at his palms -- they were filled with hundreds of short sharp thorns! He screamed, "Yaaa Allaaaah!!!", as he realized he could never hold his baby or Mumtaz ever again!

Recipe for firni

MILK AND CREAM-OF-RICE PUDDING WITH ROSE WATER AND NUTS

To serve 10 to 12

2 quarts milk
3 tablespoons rose water
2 tablespoons ghee
1/4 cup unsalted sliced, blanched almonds
1/4 cup unsalted pistachios
6 tablespoons Cream of Rice cereal
1 cup sugar

In a heavy 5- to 6-quart saucepan, bring the milk to a boil over high heat, stirring constantly to prevent a skin from forming on the surface. Reduce the heat to moderate and, stirring occasionally, cook for 30 minutes. Stir in the Cream of Rice gradually, and still stirring, add the sugar. Stir over moderate heat for 10 minutes longer, or until the pudding is thick enough to coat a spoon heavily. Remove the pan from the heat, stir in the rose water, and pour the pudding into a shallow 7-by-14-inch baking dish. With a rubber spatula, spread it evenly and smooth the top.

Heat the ghee in a 7- to 8-inch skillet until a drop of water flicked into it splutters instantly. Stirring constantly, fry the almonds over moderate heat for 2 or 3 minutes, until they are a delicate gold color. With a slotted spoon, transfer them to paper towels to drain. Add the pistachios to the ghee remaining in the skillet and stir them for 2 or 3 minutes, or until they brown lightly. Then drain them on paper towels, and sprinkle both the almonds and pistachios over the top of the pudding. Refrigerate the firni for at least 4 hours, or until it is thoroughly chilled and somewhat firm to the touch.